A Cathedral for the People. Milan’s Iconic Duomo
Happy Tuesday! And welcome to another appointment with My Travel Diary Chronicles.
Leaving behind the beauty and wilderness of Colombia and its amazing landscapes, Tamara will take us to a place which is very close to our home: Milan.
She will tell us the story behind its main symbol and one of the greatest examples of human creativity and ability to craft amazing things.
Make yourself comfortable and enjoy!
The room was filled with a sharp smell of sulfur as Gian Galeazzo’s wide eyes scanned the darkness, still trapped in the terror of his dream. His chest heaved with labored breaths, and cold sweat ran down his back. He had seen the devil—he, who certainly was no saint. Satan, in a threatening voice, had warned him: he would drag his soul to hell but not before granting him one last, perverse opportunity. He was to build a colossal cathedral filled with statues praising Satan: a masterpiece disguised as a symbol of Christian faith but housing diabolical figures—the gargoyles that would adorn the future Duomo of Milan. Thus, the idea of its creation was born. Or at least, so the legend goes.
Beyond the myth, the construction of the Duomo answered far more earthly needs. Gian Galeazzo wanted to consolidate the Visconti’s power, transforming Milan into a beacon of political and religious prestige. The ambition to make it the most beautiful church in Italy and beyond drove the duke to invest immense resources. To secure the finest materials, he even donated the entire Candoglia marble quarry to the Veneranda Fabbrica del Duomo, eliminating all transport and tax costs: the blocks were marked with the initials AUF, ad usum fabricae, the origin of the saying “a ufo,” meaning “for free.” Despite his efforts, the Duomo never became the symbol of the Visconti family. The Milanese, offended when Gian Galeazzo diverted funds to finance the Certosa of Pavia, decided to continue the works at their own expense and through their own labor, volunteering their efforts. This collective participation fostered a sense of ownership.
Thus, the cathedral became the Milanese's—not the Visconti’s and certainly not the church’s. In fact, the Duomo of Milan is the world’s only cathedral owned by its citizens.
Emerging from the darkness of the subway, the vision of the facade dazzles. An intricate web of white marble adorned with distinctive gargoyles and thousands of statues: saints, kings, emperors, and unexpected figures like Primo Carnera—a testament to the vitality of a “factory” still in operation. It is a masterpiece without equal, the last great Gothic cathedral of Europe, both imposing and delicate, described as “a poem etched in marble.”
The interior of the Duomo does not disappoint. Pillars 24 meters tall rise majestically like temple columns, with capitals sculpted to enclose statues—a feature unique in the world. The stained glass windows, true masterpieces, tell sacred stories through colors and lights that dance with the sun. They impress with their meticulous detail, a testament to the devotion and genius of the master glaziers. Over the centuries, some windows broke, and their fragments were reassembled chaotically, creating a random but equally fascinating mosaic.
Building the Duomo was an epic endeavor, starting from the apse and progressing in alternating phases, with contributions from architects, engineers, and stonemasons not only from Lombardy but also from Italy and abroad, from Germany to Bohemia, who collaborated on this monumental project. However, the facade remained unfinished for a long time, stuck in shifts of stylistic trends. It was Napoleon who ordered its completion for his coronation as King of Italy in 1805, demanding that the work be expedited and funded with local resources, promising to reimburse the money spent. Well, the Milanese are still waiting for that refund!
Towering above everything, the Madonnina stands as Milan’s undisputed symbol, a spiritual beacon watching over the city. At 108.5 meters tall, it is supported by an internal structure now made of steel, covered with copper plates and gold leaf that give it a unique brilliance. During World War II, its light was so intense that it became an ideal target for enemy bombers, and so it was covered, protecting the symbol most cherished by the Milanese.
Take care and talk soon!
It is a lovely structure. One of my favourite 'over the top' churches/cathedrals in the world. It is stunning. I have probably seen it on 20 or 25 visits to Milan for various reasons. I have also only seen it twice without too much scaffolding to block my view. It is stunning and I will keep going back, even if risking the plastic wrap!
Love seeing the travel journeys